THE FALL AND RISE OF GIN

DRINK

From its conception by a Dutch chemist in the 17th century, gin has had a chequered past.

Originally intended as a medicine designed to treat stomach and kidney complaints, gin consumption in Britain rose steeply due to changes in the duty levies on imported alcohol following the accession of William of Orange to the throne. Hundreds of small-scale gin distilleries were established across London, producing adulterated (and often deadly) cheap blends. Because of its accessibility and price, (and the fact that water was undrinkable) gin became the drink of choice of the poor. By the early years of the 18th century what had become known as the Gin Craze was truly out of hand, blamed for many social problems and high death rates.

The Gin Act of 1736 imposed high taxes on retailers in an effort to curb gin drinking, but just lead to more underground stills and riots in the streets. The prohibitive duty was gradually reduced and finally abolished in 1742. The final Gin Act of 1751 forced distillers to sell only to licensed retailers and brought gin shops under the jurisdiction of local magistrates. Following this act, reputable distilling houses were set up and gin became fashionable in more exalted social circles.

Gin's fortunes have remained steady ever since, but never again managed to reach the dizzy heights of the Gin Craze . However gin is undergoing a renaissance, and with it, the number of small distillers, producing ever more sophisticated gin attracting younger drinkers in search of something novel.

Recently, under the tutelage of sommelier Lucy George of Public Restaurant & Bar in Brisbane, ten tasters, a mix of drink professionals and 'ginthusiasts' gathered to taste a mix of old and new wave gins and give their verdict. There were 10 gins in all, from UK and Australia plus a wild card gin from Argentina that was so thoroughly reviled we can't print the comments here.

Of course this is a tiny sample of what's out there and there were a few missing from the line-up we would have liked to try including the new Australian Four Pillars, made in the Yarra Valley, as well as Bruichladdich's 'The Botanist' and we didn't sample any Plymouth gin. We tasted all of them straight to start with, then with a little water and then with tonic.

Head to our facebook page for a discussion on your favourite and whether you agree or disagree with our verdict.

*Prices are approximate

Whitley Neill London Dry $70

This was well liked by all, making it into the top three at least on everyone's list. It was a well-balanced, pretty and aromatic gin with a nose of orange peel, aniseed and sweet fruit.

Hendrick's $60

Made in Scotland, this gin is redolent of rose petals and cucumber. Very fragrant and summery- conjures up an image of a genteel garden party. This rated very highly. Another in the top 3.

Bombay Sapphire $65

This was a surprise to most, especially to many of the regular Bombay drinkers. It definitely lost something when tasted with some of the others. Peppery and a little hot on the palate it was a bit singular.

Bulldog London Dry Gin $48

A pretty lukewarm reaction all round. Sweet, with candy, musk stick and lavender flavours. It faded dramatically when mixed with tonic. Could be a decent cocktail contender but doesn't live up to it's gutsy name,

Melbourne Gin Company Dry Gin $73

Another controversial one. 'Hard edged', 'disjointed' and 'unbalanced' were some of the more negative comments. Some liked it a bit, but generally the consensus was that it as a bit of a let down as everyone had been looking forward to trying it.

Tanqueray 10 (FAVOURITE) $60

The favourite. Comments included 'the champagne of gin', 'clean, smooth, very fragrant', 'fresh, fruity and not overpowering' and 'subtly elegant'. This has definitely won a place on our summer drinks trolley.

Larks, The Godfather $60

Smooth, and well integrated with subtle pepperberry, this Tasmania gin was well-rounded and elegant with delicate spice. Very well received.

West Winds $60 (Sabre) $85 (Cutlass)

We tasted two of the West Wind's gins. The first “Sabre' was universally preferred over the more savoury 'Cutlass'. Sabre was pleasantly viscous and warming with a well balanced flavours of lemon and coriander seed. Cutlass packed a punch, with a high alcohol intensity with one taster commenting it would be perfect in a martini. Both were very clean tasting.

Gordon's London Dry Gin $49

Good old Gordon's with it's rather daggy label and reputation proved a bit of a surprise tasted in this line up.actually coming out on top of the more expensive and far trendier Bombay Sapphire.

LINK: THE FALL AND RISE OF GIN